Deciphering China's oodles of noodles

Gunpowder, the compass, movable print. We don't think any of these would have been possible without China's most important invention, the humble noodle. How, after all, can one use their noodle without eating them? We've surveyed the country's various shapes and styles to bring you our noodle atlas…

Zhajiang Mian炸酱面

Sometimes referred to as "Chinese spaghetti" in the West, hand-rolled noodles are topped with ground pork stir-fried with Zha Jiang, a salty fermented soybean paste. Sometimes hoisin sauce is used, while cucumber, radish, bean sprouts, soya beans, scallion, celery and asparagus can all be added. In Beijing, they pair every bite with a hearty helping of raw garlic.

Dong Lai Shun (东来顺), 215 Shimen Er Lu, by Xinzha Lu (5228 7877)

Lan Zhou La Mian 兰州拉面

Watching a chef extrude hundreds of fine strands from one single mound of dough is simply mesmerizing. And when they throw them in a bowl of crystal clear beef broth, daikon slices, coriander, leeks and a float of red chili oil, it's just plain tantalizing.

Dunhuang Xiaoting (敦煌小停), 333 Changde Lu, by Beijing Lu Xi Lu (6218 2579)

Ma Shi 麻什

The men of Sha'anxi have a reputation for being, shall we say, full figured. And this thumbnail-sized wheat dumpling is our prime suspect for their dumpiness. They scarf them down at breakfast, lunch, dinner and just about every other available opportunity. And no matter how you cook them – boiled in soup, fried in a wok – the mandatory topping is heaped with chili flakes.

Laoshan Guesthouse (老陕客栈), 15 Yunnan Nan Lu, by Yan'an Dong Lu (6373 1496, 6373 0274)　

Cong You Ban Mian 葱油拌面

The Shanghainese have a knack for making things look more grandiose than they really are and this noodle dish is a perfect example. A simple mix of sun-dried shrimps, gently fried scallion strips and a few drops of soy sauce and Shaoxing wine sex-up an otherwise bland broth, adding immense flavor.

Canglang Ting (沧浪亭),689-691 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Sinan Lu (5382 3738)

Re Gan Mian热干面

This is Wuhan's unofficial breakfast-to-go. Every morning you'll see people slurping up these noodles at bus stations and subway platforms all over town. Here's the X-factor: noodles are soaked in a solution of sodium carbonate and calcium carbonate to give them an irresistibly chewy texture. Then they're topped with soy sauce, sesame paste, pickled vegetables, minced garlic, chives and chili oil.

Chu Xuan Tang (楚炫堂生态炖鱼馆), 8/F, 1018 Changning Lu, by Kaixuan Lu (5238 8858)

Dao Xiao Mian刀削面

Fried, boiled or chilled and served with all manner of sauces and seasonings, these noodles are quite versatile. What makes them unique, though, is the preparation method; veteran Shanxi chefs will hoist a massive slab of dough up onto their heads and peel off large strips with a sharp knife. A hairy disregard for hygiene standards maybe, but oh how they taste…

Sanjin Chunqiu (三晋春秋), 19, Hai Shanghai Street, Lane 568 Feihong Lu, by Dalian Lu (3377 0013)

Dan Dan Mian 担担面

The name of this simple, spicy noodle dish literally translates as 'Peddler's noodles' and refers to a type of shoulder bar (a dan dan) that was used by the vendors who roved the streets of Chengdu lugging them around. Traditionally prepared with chili oil, black vinegar, preserved vegetables, Sichuan peppercorns, minced pork and scallions.

Spicy Joint, 3/F 1028 Huaihai Lu, by Donghu Lu (6470 2777)

Guoqiao Mixian 过桥米线

This Yunnan dish translates as 'crossing the bridge noodles,' in honor of its famed backstory. Legend has it a scholar studied on a secluded island in the middle of a small lake. Every day his wife would cross a bridge to bring him food. One day she made noodle soup and to contain the heat, she floated a thin layer of oil on top of it. The scholar dropped a morsel of meat into the broth and, to his amazement, it was fully cooked. If that story is true, little has changed. Bits of meat and vegetables are served along this scalding broth and tossed in to cook at the table.

Qiao Xiang Yuan (桥香园) 2/F, 388 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Sha'anxi Nan Lu (6350 0916)

Yuntun Mian 云吞面

So simple, but oh how delicious. First, the wontons: shrimp- based are a must; accept no substitutes. Then the noodles: egg-based and fine as fishing line, served perfectly al dente. But what makes this dish special is the delicate broth boiled from dried flounder.

Tsui Wah, 291 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu (6170 1282)

Niu Rou Mian 牛肉面

Nearly every province in China does some variation on this dish, but they've got nothing on Taiwan. Their beefy, boiled-for-hours broth is so huge the noodles almost can't soak it up. Then it's topped off with totally tender hunk of tendon.

Goody Goody Noodle House, B-104, 300 Fangdian Lu, by Dingxiang Lu (6159 0120)