What we expected:cracked stucco rustically revealing brick and fake timber rafters – the stereotypical, seemingly mandatory, template for a Greek restaurant. What we got: a tasteful, stylishly understated dining room – a surprise as refreshing as an Aegean sea breeze. And the menu doesn’t disappoint, either. Inveterate indecision compelled a splash out order of about 10 of their mezzes (RMB18-25): smooth and perfectly garlicky hummus tart, a tangy tzatziki and a sultry, smoky baba ganoush, to name-check but a few. Suffice to say, indecision is an advantage in this place. Selecting our mains was no easier, but we plumbed for the delicious lamb chops (RMB116) served over a heap of roast vegetables and drizzled with a red wine jus. The grilled salmon (RMB95) with garlic aioli and steamed broccoli over whipped, creamy potatoes was impressive, too. But what better was to rate a Greek restaurant, than on that Hellenic classic, the moussaka (RMB67), and it outdid the other two; an overly generous portion layered with a tender mince of beef and lamb, sun-ripened tomatoes, aubergine slivers and bechamel. And if any of this makes you thirsty, there’s a wine cellar stocked to the ceiling with the owner’s favorite selections. Definitely worth a visit. 

 // Open 7am-12mn. All cards. 1228 Beijing Xi Lu,by Xikang Lu. (6279 4726) 北京西路1228号近西康路

Fashion and food. Take a look at Kate Moss floating across a runway and it’s hard to see what these two words have to do with each other. But more and more clothing labels are expanding their brands into restaurant concepts – DKNY and Dolce & Gabbana come to mind, for instance. So it was only a matter of time before the Hong Kong-based label Shanghai Tang followed suit.

As expected, the decor takes design cues from the clothing line. Shades of orange, pink, blue and green peep out behind lacquered art deco panels on the walls. The color scheme runs into the table settings, too, with delicately embroidered place mats and enameled chopstick holders shaped like classic Tang handbags.

The Chinese media have touted this newcomer as the best dumpling shop since Jiajia Tangbao, and Lijing certainly won’t let you forget it: the exterior is emblazoned with banners screaming about their rave reviews. Quite frankly, we just don’t get it. The soup dumplings here range from mediocre to unremarkable to plain bad. Sea cucumber, scallop, shrimp and pork dumplings (RMB10) sounds like a strange combination, but we admire the effort. Unfortunately, the skins are thick, tough and rubbery. Shrimp and pork dumplings (RMB8) should not be named as such unless they’re actually stuffed with shrimp – we didn’t find any in there. Likewise, call us old-fashioned but we’re under the opinion classic crab roe and pork dumplings (RMB12) should actually have crab roe in them. And what they definitely shouldn’t have is an unpleasantly fishy taste. Where does the flavor come from? We’re almost afraid to ask. Don’t believe the hype – give this one a miss.

Daily 8am-8pm. No cards. 602 Laoshan Lu, by Weifang Lu, (6876 1242) 崂山路602号, 近潍坊路

Jing’an’s latest Italian offering is ensconced among a strip of neon-spangled restaurants on Kangding Lu, so you might miss it if you weren’t looking for it. But that’s part of this trattoria’s charm; during the day the pace picks up as RMB68 lunch sets lure in the business crowd, but dinner service here is a nicely paced, languid affair where you’ll find standard starters like bruschetta (RMB20) and antipasto misto (RMB72). Classic chicken and veal dishes like pollo cacciatore (RMB68) and Milanese di vitello con patate fritte insalata aren’t simply a mouthful to say either – the portions are huge. But if you’re going to come here for anything, it should be the pizzas. Thin crust, crispy and very reasonable (RMB54-RMB72) they’re a welcome change from the cheese-on-cardboard that restaurants usually try to pass off at these prices.

Daily 11am-12mn. No cards. 1023 Kangding Lu, near Yanping Lu (6218 3798) 康定路 1032号, 近Ñ”平路