Fashion
Tuesday, 03 November 2009 04:11
Written by Rosemary Zhu

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Meet the trendsetters, style-makers & taste-formers who rule China’s fashion world

20.Studio P.I.
Design Label

This is one of the most cutting-edge and unusual independent designers in all of China, and they’re already getting a stack of orders from abroad. Studio P.I. fuses edgy urban, inventive concepts with male, female and unisex lines. “We design clothes with a unisex style which come across feminist,” says Lu Min, chief designer at Studio P.I. “The whole look is really something and gives a strong statement about what kind of person you are.” Lu Min is among the new wave of revolutionary designers coming out of the mainland. “You have to spend five to 10 years before you are slightly established here,” she admits. “A lot of people in China are now realizing branding means less and less; but still they’re saying if I don’t own one LV bag I’m not fashionable. Yet we are creating something that most of the Chinese fashion market doesn’t offer to individuals.” Jade Bremner

     

LINKS
Numbers 25 -21
Numbers 20 -16
Numbers 15 -11
Numbers 10 -6
Numbers 5 -1

19. Exception
Eco Design Label

Chinese designer Ma Ke’s ethos is to be environmentally stylish, using natural materials such as cotton and linen which use no chemicals in their production. For that reason alone, Exception is at the forefront of 21st century Chinese fashion. The look is also fresh, modern and canvassed on quality material. Jade Bremner

18. Finger Lin
Editor-in-Chief, Too

Tell us about Too magazine.
It’s no rules, plus avant-garde, plus style. We want to make it untraditional, groundbreaking and ultimately pioneering. ‘No rules’ means even we are not quite sure of its future, but that’s not a problem. As for ‘avant-garde’ and ‘style’ we hope it can represent the life of a group of people like us and help express what we think.
    
Are indie fashion magazines difficult to publish in China?
Well, there have been some emerging forces as more and more people are finding ways to make these kind of magazines. They’re passionate, full of dreams and mostly students, therefore the content carries their lifestyles and emotions.

What are you wearing right now?
Oops… only my underpants.

Are you concerned that your content is too edgy for mainstream readers?
Actually, I don’t worry about that at all. Even if the magazine is ultra-edgy, it still reaches out to a certain group of readers, no matter how small. Owing to its nature, and to money issues, these magazines will never go mainstream. So in such cases, why not make it more edgy? As long as a magazine is powerful and striking and can express its own ideas it will influence readers.

You’re also the Art Director of Moon magazine, which has already created lots of buzz...
That’s because of its roughness and directness. What makes Moon distinctive is that it points directly to the most private stories in people’s lives. And it’s bold enough to speak about them. Roxanne Mei

17. Lu Kun
Fashion Designer

If you had the chance, who would you most like to design clothes for?
Gong Li would be my number one, because she has built a strong image for China through the movie industry. She is truly a woman. She’s in her middle forties, accepts her age and still looks so pretty. She’s gorgeous.

Tell us about your personal style.
I love to dress up. When you dress up you become the center of attention. Chinese people think you should keep a low profile, so maybe that’s not always a good thing. But when I go to events I wear suits I designed myself, in strong colors, like red corduroy trousers with a black jacket. I also love animal print!

What does Chinese style mean to you?
People always associate the qipao with China. But now we’re in a new period, we need a second qipao. Times are changing, we’ll just have to wait and see. We have a bright future ahead of us. Helen Elfer

16. Coko Wan
Accessory Designer

“A basic LV or Hermes handbag is surely not enough for today’s fashionistas,” proclaims  accessory designer Coko Wan. She made her debut at the Shanghai Fashion Week, April 2009, with an impressive collection of multi-functional bags that could be worn as waistcoats, shawls and tops. The talented designer is predicted to be far and away the best accessory designer in 2010. Rosemary Zhu

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