Travel
Wednesday, 30 September 2009 01:09
Written by Lyn Phillips

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Forget Shanghai, Bangkok or Delhi’s traffic. Hanoi takes the hazardous road crossing award. If you’ve got a death wish, step into this city’s busy roads when distracted – that should finish you off. It’s intimidating, smoggy and crowded, but wade through the fumes and you’ll find Hanoi incredibly rewarding. The metropolis, located in the northwest, is Vietnam’s second-largest city and, of course, its capital. Expect hawkers, spicy food stalls and plenty of bikes, absolutely loads of them. Plus, if history is your thing, you’ll be in your element; the big attractions include Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and complex and the Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple) on the northern part of Ho Hoan Kiem Lake. And there’s plenty of charming Vietnamese architecture in the old quarter. 

Getting there
Asia Airlines offer cheap fares from Bangkok. Daily flights are also available direct from Shanghai with Shanghai Air. Visit www.shanghai-air.com.
 
Things to do
Hanoi is known for having one of the best and biggest markets in South East Asia. But it’s not so much a market as a number of market streets specializing in different wares. You can buy literally everything here, yet if you’re looking for something different then browse through some of the curious shops, clock shops or art galleries around Hang Bong and Hang Bac. When you’re tired of shopping, rest your feet and cool off in the air-conditioned Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. The wonderful wizardry and skillful manipulation of the puppets is accompanied by the haunting rhythms of live Vietnamese folk music. The theater is on the north side of Ho Hoan Kiem Lake on Tien Hoang Street, and performances run at regular intervals throughout the afternoon (admission is between RMB70-150). The Ethnographic Museum is also well worth a visit in its own right. It explains Vietnam’s diverse ethnic groups, from hill tribes to lowland groups, and houses a wonderful collection of ethnic objects. There is also a shop selling reasonably priced souvenirs.  

Where to eat
There is a huge variety of places to eat, but Vietnam is famous for its pho noodle soups. Pho 24 is a clean and reasonably priced chain, ideal for simple noodle dishes. If you want more than a snack, head for the delicious Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau St).  This is a truly Vietnamese culinary experience in authentic ethnic surroundings where you watch how the food is cooked using traditional methods.  Alternatively, to taste French Vietnamese cuisine visit Green Tangerine (48 Hang Be) but be prepared to pay European prices for your meal. For a cheaper version of French Vietnamese cuisine, try Cafe Monde (at the Ethnographic Museum, open during the day). We recommend the crepes with sweet potatoes. Wine drinker? Buy a bottle of the local tipple Van Dalat, a pleasant Vietnamese secret.
 
Where to stay
To avoid the maddening sounds of the Hanoi motorbike horns and general hubbub of the city try Hotel Elegance (they have three Hotels in Hanoi). We stayed in Elegance 3 (RMB300 per night for a double room) in Hang Bong, and very central. The mixture of French renaissance marble decor with modern facilities worked well to provide a luxurious and tranquil haven. The service was excellent and staff will book flights, trains or coach tickets and order taxis for you at no extra cost.

Handy tips
Don’t accept offers from taxis inside the airport; go to the outside official taxi rank, much cheaper!  With a population estimated at just over six million, most seem to travel on motorbikes. Motorbike taxis are not for the faint-hearted; take them at your own risk (we had a frightening experience on the back of bike going the wrong way round a roundabout).

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