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Travel
Tuesday, 01 December 2009 01:12 Written by Caroline Tylawsky
In north Sichuan the Valley of Nine Villages awaits: China's land of fairytales Crystal-clear blue lakes nestled in the foothills of snow-capped mountains, acres of rolling hills with towering pine trees, massive waterfalls cascading into rushing rivers. Jiuzhaigou is a fairy-tale land on Earth. The beauty and people of Jiuzhaigou remained undiscovered by the Chinese government until 1972, so the area has been able to maintain astonishing amounts of Tibetan and Qiang culture. Jiuzhaigou is one of 13 counties in the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture and has China’s 9th-largest Tibetan population. The natural beauty and cultural heritage of Jiuzhaigou have made it a must-see for Chinese and foreigners alike. The local people in the region used to live a humble existence surviving on limited agriculture, herding yaks and horses. Now a lot of their income comes from tourism. Many families, however, are still nomadic and follow their herds up Minshan to Jiuzhaigou in the summer. On our trip the air was a crispy invigorating 15°C, just chilly enough to need jackets and scarves. A 90-minute bus ride took us out of the mountains and into Jiuzhaigou Valley. As we wound down hair-pin turns the scenery was dotted with small Tibetan villages, Buddhist temples painted brilliant yellow, colorful prayer flags and herds of wild yak and horses. The main religion of the area is pre-Buddhism Bon or Benbo-Sec (sects of Tibetan Buddhism). Throughout the park we saw stupas, prayer wheels, prayer flags and chorten, all evidence of the Buddhist belief that the soul is inherent in all things, including mountains. Although tourism has brought a significant amount of income into the valley, the Tibetan people still live their lives largely as they always have. Almost all of the food they rely on is from the valley, mostly potatoes, barley and yak. The lifestyle is unique due to the very high altitude and low temperatures all year round. Many families commit their lives to raising vast yak herds, to ensure their survival. We enjoyed our first Tibetan meal that night. Our tour guide taught us how to take the tender pieces of yak, dip them in a buttery, garlicky mix and wrap them in warm bread. The meal was accompanied by homemade barley beer and hot vegetable stew. The next day we ventured into Jiuzhaigou National Park (recently awarded UNESCO World Heritage status). Climbing, by bus, to the highest point of the park, 3,000 meters up, we looked out at a vast turquoise lake. It is said the beautiful Goddess Semo went to this lake to wash her face and the vivid colors come from her makeup, giving it the title Five Colored Pool. This is just one of the 114 lakes in the park, each of which has their own unique story. In addition to lakes, there are countless raging waterfalls and ancient forests. Try to find the Old Man Cypress Tree. Legend says that this tree was once a man who drove all evil out from the valley, but lost his arm in the battle. He now stands guard at the end of Long Lake to protect the people and Jiuzhaigou. The best way to enjoy the enchanting scenes is to forgo bus transportation and hike down the mountain. Wooden pathways stretch for miles throughout the park, taking you past thundering waterfalls, through quiet forests and into Tibetan villages. If you’re lucky, you may spot the ever-elusive golden monkey or giant panda, both of which have made their home in the park. We spent the evening at Jiuzhai Paradise Theater, host to traditional Qiang and Tibetan performances. The play is clearly designed for tourists, but offers a snippet of tradition including an ancient Buddhist story (folklore from the valley), authentic outfits, song and dance. We walked back to the hotel along the busy streets lined with outdoor restaurants and bars. The next morning we trooped off to the shops along Jiuzhaigou’s main street. The area offers an abundance of mica and jade, silver bracelets delicately engraved with Tibetan symbols and unusual rock bracelets of brilliant colors, ranging from bright yellows to vibrant greens to deep reds. Travel Pack Getting there Where to stay Sheraton Jiuzhaigou Resort 8683 7773 9988 / Jiuzhaigou Scenic Spot, Jiuzhaigou, Sichuan Where to eat Abu Luzi Tibetan Restaurant, Bian Bian Jie, 3-2 F Zhangzha District, Jiuzhaigou, 0837 773 9169 When to visit Helpful websites
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