Travel
Wednesday, 30 September 2009 02:09
Written by Xinyan Yu

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From ancient temples to deserted palaces, Mother India will take your breath away

Sharing the sidewalk with cows and camels, breathing in the complicated smells of curry and chai, watching people dressed in a riot of colors and tossing curious stares back and forth with the locals, one may easily be overwhelmed by the Indian mystery. As we know, tied up in its ancient history are versatile cultures as well as inconceivable poverty. After thousands of years of vicissitude, India’s immeasurable natural and historical beauty has slowly wiggled out of its cocoon, exposing places such as Rajasthan, an ancient prosperous kingdom.

Nestled in the northwestern corner of India, the old civilizations of Rajasthan are often skipped by tourists who visit New Delhi for its modernity and Agra for the epic Taj Mahal. However, those that call themselves adventure travelers but also have a penchant for luxury should not pass by Rajasthan. One day may be a peaceful outdoorsy sleep with the camels then the next an exorbitant night at a five-star heritage hotel.

Rajasthan has an abundance of sand dunes, rugged forts, historic palaces and bustling bazaars to get stuck in to. Upon arriving, and to avoid drawing too much attention, we did as the locals do and wrapped our heads with outrageously bright scarves, but we were constantly wiping off the sweat dripping down our faces. We plodded on anyway, along the scalding stone paths, questioning our motives for putting ourselves in this uncomfortable situation. As we saw the amazing forts and lake palaces, forming an oasis among deserts, it became obvious.

Home to the heroic Rajputs who go back almost 5,000 years, Rajasthan was occupied by several prominent kingdoms generation after generation. The most notable areas are Udaipur, Jodhpur,  Jaisalmer and Jaipur.

We trekked on to Udaipur (best visited in the rainy season), popularly known for its amazing view of Lake Pichola reflecting the spotless white Lake Palace and the meandering city palace. There was plenty of water, so we took a boat over the glistening lake and then roamed about the complex of palaces. Elephant rides are also on offer as an alternative way to visit the area.

Also on offer is the antique car museum. We marveled at the intact collection of brand-name cars, oddly placed in this desert town. We moved on to Jodhpur, where 400 feet above the city lies the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, overlooking a sea of houses with an indigo tint. Painting the houses blue, according to the locals, keeps bugs away and makes people feel cool in the scorching weather.

Jodhpur’s main attraction is the Mehrangarh Fort, which in the past has been hit by many cannon balls and held off countless attacks from its enemies.  Through the fort’s many gates, beggar kids approached us and danced to a traditional instrument. It produced a strange melodious tone, yet their faces were rigid and their eyes melancholy. In the distance stood the Umaid Bhawan Palace and the Jaswant Thada palace where the king recently stayed.
Jaisalmer, only 100km from the India-Pakistan border, is known as the ‘golden city.’ Unlike the other royal forts, Jaisalmer is intriguingly residential. The maze of narrow paths is decorated by colorful clothes hanging on lines, stands with glistening silverware and hilarious advertisements above shops. We giggled at one selling blankets which said: Better than any Viagra. Along the streets, old women with bright saris sat on the threshold of their houses, smiling with wrinkles creasing their weatherworn faces.

One of the most exciting things to do is ramble in the golden desert on camels while soaking up the breathtaking beauty of the Jaisalmer sunset. Tourist packages are on offer and include a camel ride, a dance program and a meal. Their spicy red curry with beans is an awesome experience.  

Jaipur was our next stop, otherwise known as the ‘pink city,’ built in 1727 as the first ‘well-planned’ city of India. Now the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a city where the ancient and the modern try to coexist in harmony. The reality of this is a fascinating juxtaposition of events such as an expensive perfume store surrounded by stinky trash piles, or majestic architecture adjacent to an open sewer.

The Amber Palace that crowns the highest hill in Jaipur’s region is the most gorgeous palace in Rajasthan. It is surrounded by a fortified wall no less majestic than the Great Wall, though considerably shorter in length. Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar are the city’s other noteworthy scenes. Also known as the ‘palace of wind,’ Hawa Mahal stands noble in the middle of the tatty bazaar and is on most of the postcards in the tourist shops. We stumbled across the famous Jantar Mantar, a garden full of incredible ancient astrological observatories. It leaves you breathless with wonder. Seriously, is there any other land as mysterious, paradoxical and exotic as India?

Travel Pack
How to get there
Mumbai and New Delhi can be easily reached by major airlines. Cathay Pacific is highly recommended. Rajasthan is only an overnight bus away from Mumbai and a two-hour taxi ride from New Delhi. To get around Rajasthan, best hire a car. Public buses are unbearably stuffy (and dangerous) so it’s much easier to maneuver with private cars. Also, car drivers usually voluntarily serve as tour guides. A decent tip will justify the extra time you demand from them.

Where to stay
Hotels across Rajasthan range from dirt-cheap to super-luxurious, and in every city you visit there are plenty to choose from. Make a reservation before you go. When in Jaisalmer, a night in the desert is recommended. Book with any travel agency in town, and get ready for a wild night in the tent.

What to see and do
Despite all the city palaces and forts, there are also delicately designed Jian temples and tons of interesting museums. If you want to see something really Indian, go to the famous dance program with traditional puppet shows in Udaipur, or in Jaisalmer desert. The rat temple in Bikaner and the small village luni on the way from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer deserve a stopover. It’ll be your first time worshiping rats while being welcomed by opium water!
Rent an audio guide if you visit the forts. You’ll be able to stroll around hearing today’s kings and queens explain every detail of the old nation’s ancient history.

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